Odd Bits: How to Cook the Rest of the Animal by Jennifer McLagan
In a world of costly prime cuts–stately crown roasts, plump pork chops, and regal racks of lamb–it's easy to forget about (and steer clear of) the more economical, but less lovable parts of the beast–bellies, brains, cheeks, combs, gizzards, hearts, hocks, kidneys, lungs, marrow, necks, shanks, spleens, tongues, trotters, and, oh yes, testicles.
Historically, these so-called odd bits have had a regular place on our plates and in our culinary repertoires. In fact, many are considered delicacies and routinely appear in regional specialties. So why do we eschew and waste valuable protein? When have our sensibilities become so squeamish? In short–when did we decide offal had become awful?
Jennifer McLagan, award-winning author of Bones and Fat, is on a crusade to bring the nose-to-tail style of cooking and eating out of the closet and back onto to our dining tables. Her mission: restoring our respect for the whole animal, developing a taste for its lesser known parts, and learning how to approach them in the kitchen as confidently as we would a steak or a burger.
Serious food lovers will delight in the sheer variety of the dishes that await, ranging from simple to challenging:
Headcheese for the Unconvinced
Veal Cheeks with Swiss Chard and Olives
Cheese and Just a Little Brain Fritters
Lamb Neck with Quince and Turnip
Brisket Braised with Caramelized Onions and Chile
Sweetbreads with Morels and Fresh Fava Beans
Moroccan-Style Braised Heart
Minted Tripe and Pea Salad
Wild Boar Shanks with Cranberries and Chocolate
Bone Marrow and Mushroom Custard
“Offal is back in vogue,” says John Walsh at the Independent.